We recently spent a week in the Anderson Valley, where we grow olives, apples, and a plethora of other fruits and vegetables. We’re having a rather cool summer so our tomato plants are huge, but slow to ripen. I can’t wait for our tomato season.
For me, the unique smell of vine-ripened tomatoes is a form of time travel, taking me instantly back to the summer of 1968 at my grandparents house in Crown Point, IN. My Grampa was an avid gardener and his tomato vines groaned and sagged under the burden of their ripe fruit. Every day more of his over-ripe fruit dropped to the ground, the insides bursting out of their blood-red skins, each outer skin barely containing a pound of juicy goodness. Our Mendocino olive consultant, Steve Tylicki, recently advised "Don’t leave your car with the windows open during the heat of summer. Your neighbors will load it up with ripe tomatoes." It was one of those summers in Crown Point. Hot and humid, just the way tomatoes like it.
Now, were my sister telling this story, she would blame me for the event I’m about to describe. But today I am the author and have the chance to set the record straight. It was her fault for beginning our day’s play next to Grampa’s heavily-laden tomato plants. I was blameless, unable to choose any path other than the one any nine year old would follow under similar circumstances.
You may be able to guess where this is going…
I grew bored with whatever role-playing game she was directing, and encouraged our younger brother to join my boycott. Undoubtedly feeling rejected, she moved her attentions some distance away from her cretinous brothers. And we immediately began doing what frustrated boys naturally do on a hot summer day – throwing ripe tomatoes at a tree trunk. I can still recall the sound of that satisfying splat. But you know, when selecting a target for tomato projectiles, an immobile tree simply can’t compete with your sister’s backside. The "satisfying splat" wasn’t the only noise to come from that particular bullseye…
Let me just say, Mom didn’t find it as hysterically funny as I did. As I recall, she failed to find any humor in it at all. And I’ll bet she never got the stains out of Cathy’s clothes either.
"Tomato Butt" Gazpacho
Here is a much better use for ripe tomatoes. Pairing this soup with a dry Rosé makes a cool summer meal requiring no heat in your already too-hot kitchen. Just make sure the wine has good acidity, as you’ll find with any of the wines in our Dry Rosé Collection, such as the Barbera Rosato from L’Uvaggio di Giacomo $12 (Right)
Ingredients
1 pound (each) tart green and ripe red Heirloom tomatoes
1/8 cup Fresh Cilantro or Basil, chopped. Reserve some for garnish
1 Tbsp (Generous) fresh citrus juice – lime, lemon or orange all work nicely
1/2 cup good olive oil, divided in equal parts
1 teaspoon acidic vinegar such as red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Sea salt, to taste
White pepper, to taste
Fresh baguette to accompany
Procedure
Blend until smooth the green tomatoes, cilantro or basil, juice and half the olive oil (reserve several tomatoes for slicing). Taste, add small amounts of salt and pepper as needed, remembering you’ll want to add some just before serving. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for several hours or as much as one day.
Wipe out the blender and repeat with the Red Tomatoes, Vinegar and paprika (again reserving one or two of the smallest tomatoes for slicing). Season as above and store in a separate airtight container.
When ready to serve, ladle one color into the bowl first, then gently lay a smaller amount of the second color inside. Top with reserved basil or cilantro and one tomato slice of each color.
Cheers!
Dave Chambers, Wine Merchant
Today’s Quote
"If life gives you lemons, make lemonade. If it gives you tomatoes, make Bloody Marys"
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