Monthly Archive for May, 2008

Ode to Pinot

Swclogogs3x3_10May 30th, 2008
I love pinot.  So imagine how much fun it’s been selecting the wines for the bi-monthly wine club "Miles’ Pinot Selections".  I’ve been thrilled by discoveries of some emerging greats (think Tudor, Roessler Cellars, Breggo, Labyrinth…) as well as confirmed my love for some of the established greats like Arcadian, Au Bon Climat and Byron.  I’m not too upset that, while enjoying all our new discoveries, much of our cellar at home as gone untouched.  I’ll get around to digging through it again one of these days.

Which brings me to this You Tube video clip I found.  It’s the character Miles, from the 2004 movie "Sideways", in the scene that inspired me to begin the Sideways Wine Clubs, start blogging, and invest in our wine shop, once again proving the old chestnut that the best way to make a million bucks in the wine industry is to start with two million.  Watch it for yourself (though if it inspires your love of pinot, I encourage you to simply join our club instead of jumping into the business – you’ll save a ton of money!)

Beautifully written by Rex Pickett (book), Alexander Payne and Jim Taylor (screenplay).  Perfectly rendered on the silver screen by the brilliant Paul Giamatti.  It’s worth seeing over and over.

Dtwm_color_2Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

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Today’s Quote
"Napa makes Anna Nicole Smith wines.  We make Isabella Rosellini wines."  Joe Davis, Owner/Winegrower at Arcadian Winery


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Robert Mondavi, R.I.P.

Mondavi_portrati_3Friday May 16th, 2008
Please join me in a moment’s reflection on the life of Robert Mondavi, who died peacefully this morning at his family home.  He was 94.

Though I don’t carry wines from any of the companies he fathered, I believe everyone in the industry – whether grower, producer, retailer or wine fan – owes Robert Mondavi a debt of gratitude.  Long a supporter of California wines, Mondavi spent much of his career inveigling his fellow winemakers to cooperatively promote wine as healthful food product for everyday consumption with meals.

Mondavi was already 52 years old when he forced a nasty split with his family winery, Charles Krug (owned by C.K. Mondavi).  The resulting ill will lasted well into late adulthood for both Robert and his Brother Peter, who took the helm at C. Krug. 

Robert and Peter had worked together for 22 years before the 1965 rift, Mondavi_winery which resulted in the founding of Mondavi winery a year later, notably marked by the innovated and showy winery facility (well, for the time anyway, now it seems quietly tasteful in comparison to the architectural monstrosities in the neighborhood).  Mondavi wanted a facility that typified California architecture, so he hired noted architect Cliff May ("Father of the California Ranch House").  It was the first big new winery built since prohibition, and announced to the world that California wines were entering the world stage.

Over the next 30+ years, Mondavi built a wine empire, resulting in the 6th largest winery in the U.S. at the time of its 2004 sale.  Over these years, Mondavi advocated the adoption of quality European winemaking techniques, including the use of French oak barrels, stainless-steel fermentation tanks and temperature-controlled fermentation to preserve delicate aromas.

Here’s to you, Robert.
Dave the Wine Merchant

Wine & Music, the Interplay. Does Music Change What We Taste? S.F. Wine Class at Reaves Gallery

EdithpiafMay 5, 2008
I first became interested in how music affects one’s approach to wine when I read a 1997 article in Nature Magazine, nicely summarized here.  It described how wine purchases are modified by the music being played at the time of purchase.  Reportedly, at the wine shop being studied, German wines made up 73% of sales on the days German music was played while French wines accounted for 77% of sales on the days French music was played.  Helpful retailer tip – running the needle through the groves of your old Edit Piaf albums will help unload those lingering cases of obscure Madiran.

MozartTen years later, I’m introduced to the likes of Clark Smith, the owner of Vinovation and industry rabble rouser.  Clark tends to enjoy creating a wake in still ponds.  And he is a tireless promoter of a number of ideas, including Pearl_jam the discovery that music can affect our sense of taste and smell.  As reported in my previous posting, Smith’s theory is that romantic music (such as Mozart) enhances the taste of Pinot, while brooding, angry music (i.e., Punk Rock) enhances Cabernet Sauvignon.

Skeptical?  Let’s Test It!
At last month’s wine class at the Reaves Gallery, attendees voted on the content of this month’s class.  They enthusiastically chose to participate in this test.  Participants will be tasting six wines paired with different music to see whether the music makes us like a wine more or less than when tasted alone.

This experience is a must for anyone who has ever wondered what music to play during their dinner party, in their wine shop, or at their tasting bar.  Is it possible to enjoy a certain wine more when you hear a certain type of music? Come join us and see what you think!


When: May 20th, 6:30 – 8:00

Where: Reaves Gallery, 235 Gough St. (Hayes Valley) San Franciso

Cost: $49 (must be 21)



Dtwm_color_2Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com.

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Does Size Matter? A Note on Bottle Size

Bottle_sizes_2 Friday, May 2, 2008
We were walking down a city street when my friend Eric asked about this HUGE wine bottle he’d seen.  He thought it must have been about "This Big" – and he held his hand almost three feet off the ground.

It reminded me of the bottle displays we saw in a cave in the Loire last fall (click the photo to see it enlarged, and just maybe the resolution is sufficient to show the titles on the largest bottle – it’s called a Balthazar, and is the equivalent of 16 regular bottles).  Eric’s question encouraged me to look up, for about the fifteenth time, the various bottle sizes and their related names, most of which were taken from Old Testament Kings.

So here, for the true wine geek, is a reference list of wine bottles by volume, along with their related names.  Note the source of my confusion – in their typically provincial way, Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy have different naming conventions for some, but not all, bottle sizes.  This is the sort of trip-you-up detail they like to ask on the Sommelier’s exam!

Name Derivation # Bots (Champ.) # Bots (Bord) # Bots (Burg) # Liters
Standard Bottle Approx 1/5 gal. 1 1 1 .75 L
Magnum Unk. 2 2 2 1.5L
Double Magnum Duh 4 4 –? 3.0L
Jeroboam Biblical. 1st King of Northern Kingdom 4 6 4 3/4.5/3
Rehoboam Biblical.  1st King of Judea 6 6 4.5L
Imperial Unk. 8 6.0L
Methuselah Oldest Man in the bible 8 8 6.0L
Salmanazar Biblical. Assyrian King 12 12 9.0L
Balthazar Biblical. One of 3 Wise Men 16 16 16 12.0L
Nebuchadnezzar Biblical King of Babylon 20 20 20 15.0L

We Six Kings…
So who were these guys, and why are bottles named after them?  Here, I answer the first question.  The second question is one I still quest after, between my more serious job of tilting at windmills.

  • Jeroboam (Founder and first king of Israel, 931-910 BC)
  • Rehoboam (King of Judah, 922-908 BC)
  • Methuselah (Whose most notable achievement seems to be that he lived to the age of 969.  Man, if I live that long I hope to be remembered for more than just being old.  But can you imagine the size of this guy’s birthday cake?)
  • Salmanazar (King of Assyria, 859-824 BC)
  • Balthazar (Regent of Babylon, 539 BC)
  • Nebuchadnezzar (King of Babylon, 605-562 BC, and not a very nice guy, if my memory serves)

Massive Bottles – Trophies or White Elephants?
Wineries produce very few large format bottles because they require manual processing.  Once they choose to release a bottling that is larger than a magnum, it no longer fits on a standard bottling line.  Therefore, I’ve seen many large format bottles that have cork flaws.  Contributors to this problem include non-standard cork sizes, the inconsistencies of a manual process, and hand-dipping or capsuling.  Each step means higher labor costs and higher risk of poor closure. 

But collectors attracted by the rarity of such bottles are also attracted by the fact that wine ages much more slowly and gracefully in larger bottles, thus outlasting standard-sized bottles from the same vintage.  However, such graceful aging is quickly spoiled if the closure is not perfect, and I’ve seen wineries discreetly hide large format bottles with imperfect closures that were oxidizing far more quickly than their Standard or Magnum counterparts.

So, though the rarity of such bottles makes them prized among collectors, I wonder how often such bottles are found to be disappointing once opened.  Please weigh in with comments if you’ve had an experience – good or bad – with bottles larger than magnums.

Announcing A Collectible Magnum From Oak Savanna

Oak Savanna 2004 Red Table Wine "1000 Hills" $90 (1.5 L Magnum) – A Top Seller in our wine shop, Tastes of the Valleys. This is the 2nd, very limited, vintage of this proprietary blend (60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc) that is as unique as its place of origin.

Fruit-forward with aromas and flavors of black cherry, blueberry, cassis made more complex with hints of dusty herbs and earth that lead into a finish of spicy black pepper, tar and toasty oak.

Just over 100 magnums were bottled, making these beautiful, tall bottles a striking centerpiece for any collection or special event.  Several inches taller than a normal magnum, the black label on this tall, thin bottle is just plain sexy!  It does, however, require special handling.

Dtwm_color_2Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com.

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Today’s Quote

"The true measure of a civilization is not the census, nor the size of its cities or its crops, but the kind of person the country turns out"  Ralph Waldo Emerson  (1803-1882)


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