Monthly Archive for May, 2009

Schist Happens

This is Schist - Classic Priorat Vineyard

This is Schist - Classic Priorat Vineyard

 

I’m taking a break from studying Priorat vineyards so I can write about Priorat vineyards.  It’s sick, I know.  But I leave tomorrow for six days in Spain, and I’m learning everything I can about the region.

Priorat (formerly known as Priorato) is Spain’s other DOQ (their highest regulatory standard for wine quality).  There are only two DOQ’s in all of Spain – the well-known Rioja region and the lesser known and far smaller region of Priorat.  Priorat was a wine region long before wine (and especially an obscure old world wine) enjoyed its current popularity.  Winegrower’s kids left in droves for the more attractive beach lifestyle, just 30 minutes away on the coast.  But a decade or so ago, a handful of adventurous young adults decided to return home, nurture the long-forgotten Grenache (Garnacha) vineyards, and “produce the best wine we possibly could”.  And, as they say, the rest is history.  This first release won raves from the global wine press, and suddenly demand exceeded supply – a condition that has not changed much today.

Priorat wines tend to be dark, well-oaked and very brawny, which is not normally my preferred  style.  But as with a few domestic wines (such the Rattlesnake Rock from Big Basin Vineyards), these big wines bring complexity and earthy minerality to the party, giving their joviality a depth that most back-slappers never know.  So instead of growing quickly tiresome, these wines pull you back for more, for one more sniff, one more taste… and the next thing you know the bottle is empty.  And you swear you’ve only had a few sips.  It’s that kind of wine.

http://elspampols.com/

http://elspampols.com/

Oh Schist!

What is it that makes these wines so alluring?  The smart money is on the soil, though I must use that word loosely.  As you can see from the vineyard photos here (click the photos to learn more), the earth that supports these vines is more rock than soil.  The local term for it is “Llicorella”, which is known as Schist in geological terms.  Schist is simply a unique sort of fractured shale with a pH that is nearly neutral (most shale is highly acidic), which I’m told makes it easier for the vines to convey more of the minerality so sought after by wine connoisseurs.  And in this case, the mineral flavor is reminiscent of slate, an evocative nuance that makes the price of the best Priorat wines hover in the mid-hundreds.

Upon my return I’ll recommend some of the more affordable versions of this wine.  No promises – I’m a retailer, not an importer – but if I can find some gems with U.S. distribution, I’ll bring them into my portfolio and let you know about them.  Meanwhile, support your local wine merchant!

Cheers!

Dave the Wine Merchant

The Pinot Report – Great Info for Pinot Lovers!

pinot-report

There is a brouhaha brewing in the wine media.  It seems that bloggers are the new review service of choice, and that younger wine drinkers trust social media reviews over those of professional reviewers, believing the latter have been compromised in some way.   

Whatever you think, I’d like to highlight a reliable source for pinot noir reviews – Greg Walter’s publication “Pinot Report”.   Now here’s where I must admit my own bias, lest I be painted by the same brush of distrust – perhaps I enjoy his reviews primarily because Greg’s palate generally agrees with mine.  Which means he gives high scores to pinots of elegance and character, of nuance and delicacy.  IMHO, this is a publication for the true pinotphile.  Subscribe here ($75 per year) or for information on sending Greg samples of your pinots click here.

pinot-on-the-riverBut Greg Walters is a busy boy.  In addition to rating hundreds of pinots every year, he also organizes and sponsors the Pinot on the River event – on of several great opportunities to immerse yourself in a weekend dedicated to pinot perfection.  For information on this fall’s Pinot on the River event (October 23 – 25), click here (note, it appears the full agenda is not yet posted).

And for information on the June 12th “Russian River Passport“, featuring pinots from 40 producers in this famed growing region, click here.

Pinot lovers rejoice.

It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it                       

 Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Wine Quote of the Day:

Cabernet Sauvignon is like a Black Labrador – it comes up and licks you. Pinot Noir is more cerebral – it’s like a cat.

~ Scott Rich, Moraga Vineyards.  Submitted by Grace in Iowa

A Wine for Cinco de Mayo, Palin's Birthday, et al

cinco-de-maypIt’s like cancelling the 4th of July to keep everyone at home” said one patriot, who shuddered at the idea.  But that’s what the fear of Swine Flu has done to Mexico’s traditional Cinco de Mayo celebration – an annual commemoration of their unlikely victory over the French in 1862.

What’s an online merchant to do?  The hordes of would-be Cinco de Mayo celebrants, once searching the internet for last-minute pairing advice, now sitting at home with idle keyboards. 

Unless, just maybe, I can find an alternative celebration that generates millions of alternative web searches.  And thanks to the power of internet search tools, I’ve found one – the birthday of Michael Palin (CBE) who was born back in, well, some years ago.

Michael Palin for President

Michael Palin for President

Palin Wine?

Palin is best known for his work with the comedy troupe Monty Python’s Flying Circus, back in the latter part of our prior century.  He then launched a second career as an award-winning travel writier and TV guide.   Then in 2000, he was beknighted.  Aftersuch career success most people would be content to fade into retirement.  But in 2008 Palin anted up his fame and fortune to launch a failed campaign for President of the United States, an ill-advised move that left a bit of a stain on his otherwise stellar and tasteful reputation.  I’ll bet McCain still won’t talk to him.

But enough silliness (is there ever though, really?).  Speaking of tasteful, and of something completely different, I’d like to turn the conversation to wine.  As always.

Whether raising a toast to Cinco de Mayo, or to Palin’s birthday, here is a wine that makes the best of both celebrations.  This was one of eight wines selected for our various wine club shipments that went out in April, and it’s proven to be one of the favorites, if subsequent re-orders provides any indication!

contour-front-labelNevada City Winery, 2005 “Contour” Bordeaux Blend – Affordable Luxury 
The 2005 Directors’ Reserve Contour is a blend of all five of the classic Bordeaux grape varieties. This wine melds the structure, charm and personality of each variety into a balanced, complex wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon takes the lead role at first, but more complex and layered aromas and flavors emerge as this wine opens up in decanter or glass (or cellar).

A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec, 3% Petit Verdot. Alcohol: 14.2% (perfect for food pairing).  Total Acid: .62 g/L (pH  3.79).

Click to Buy Nevada City 2005 “Contour”

$25/Bottle, $270/Case

Price does not reflect club member discounts

The Back Story 
More than a few small wineries have started in a garage. In Bordeaux they’ve even coined a word for it – Garagiste – generally referring to Mavericks who choose to operate outside the restrictions of their local winemaking traditions, and charging arm-and-leg prices for their product.

Nevada City Winery started out in a garage in 1980.  Since that time, this successful winery has enjoyed many expansions, but each has preserved the historic Miners Foundry Garage.  Visitors are often surprised by its smallness – about the size of a large living room.  The winery building, now centrally located, was on the outskirts of this two-street town back when the garage first served its residents.

By the way, the “town” is pictured on the label, the Gold-Rush town of Nevada City, California, where the wooden plank sidewalks and Victorian-era building facades make you wonder if you’ve just stepped into the film set for an old western.

But this is the second incarnation of this winery, the original was founded over a century ago during California’s first wine boom – sadly put asunder by the one-two punch of the devastating phylloxera epidemic in the late 1800’s, followed by the ruinous experiment in legislating morality known as “Prohibition”.  After that, the California wine industry was sidelined for four decades.

In 1880 there were over 300 acres of grapes in Nevada County. A century later the county was home to just one small vineyard. Today there are again over 300 acres of grapes and the wine industry is flourishing once more.

It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it                     

Hard work, but somebody’s gotta do it

 Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

A Toast to Mothers Everywhere

A Toast to Moms

A Toast to Moms

As Mother’s Day approaches, wine specials have flooded in.  From this avalanche of offers, you may have noticed how wine writers (especially the men, it seems) recommend “feminine” wines for Mother’s Day.  What characteristics evoke femininity in a wine is a curious thing.  As far as I’ve been able to tell, wine bottles come with neither the innie nor outie sort of naughty bits.  If they did, surely I’d have noticed by now.
Perhaps the easiest way to engender a bottle of wine is through its label.  A bottle wearing a label emblazoned with fire trucks, motorcycles, airplanes, fast cars, skulls or anything with flames… probably not one for mom.  Unless her Harley is parked out back.  There are always exceptions.
Though a label can hint at gender through the immediacy of our visual senses, our sense of smell and taste take over once the bottle is out of site.  A wine’s gender is implied by its characteristics – those that are lighter in body, smooth, nuanced and elegant are often referred to as feminine.  Those that are big, tannic, high in alcohol, and deeply infused with the color and flavor of very ripe fruit are considered brutish and masculine (neither of which are good marketing terms, so the industry prefers the phrase “New World Style”, AKA “Parkerized” in homage to the man who made them popular).
Mother's Day Brunch

Mother's Day Brunch

But in my experience, these stylistic classifications don’t actually seem to work when it comes to predicting which sex will prefer a certain style.  In my unscientific observations, women are perhaps a bit more likely than men to be fans of the New World Style, and if not more so, certainly no less so.

So where does that leave those in a quandary over a wine for Mother’s Day?  With lots of great options, actually!  
The Bantem Weight
Let’s start with pairing the wine to the meal instead of worrying about Mom’s palate preference.  The former trumps the latter in the end.  If selecting a wine for brunch the key is to find something with a light hand on the alcohol, a wine that doesn’t leave the group comatose after an hour at the table.  Both the earliness of the meal and the typical fare argue for wines light in alcohol and body (but then, I repeat myself). 
Sparkling wine lends itself nicely to the brunch meal, but here’s the twist – opt for the off-dry Demi-Sec instead of the usual Brut, or the often over-looked Prosecco or Moscato (sorry I have neither of these in inventory, but here are some favorites from other retailers – Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, Arlequin Wine Merchant.  These options are particularly adept at complimenting fruit salads, sweet rolls and other mid-day fare.  And if you’re meal involves egss of any sort, a touch of sweetness will be key – dry wines and eggs fight like unhappy siblings. 
For meals with more robust flavors, don’t overlook the blush wines, though even many of these are being made with high alcohol these days – opt for something below 14%, if you can find it.  Other options abound, including a good Riesling or Gewurztraminer.
What About Mimosas?
Ahhh, the old mimosa.  The key here is to avoid the expensive stuff, as their nuanced flavors and lighter bubbles get crushed under the weight of the orange juice, without serving rock-gut Charmat-style bubbly.  I recommend the Charles de Fere ($19 no on sale for $16) mixed with no more than 1/3 to 1/4 orange juice.  And for a beautiful variation, top it off with a splash of grenadine, POM or (my preference) Framboise and a fresh raspberry.
The Middle Weights
Opt for Pinot Noir and bolder blush wines if your Mother’s Day meal is bigger than brunch.  These food-friendly wines span the range from light and elegant (such as the Molnar Family ’06 Pinot, $34, or the  Au Bon Climat ’05 Pinot from Los Alamos, $35) to the richer style with higher alcohol, deeper color, and warmer flavors (Oak Savanna Cellars, ’05 Pinot, $37 or the William James ’06 Pinot from Garey’s Ranch, $38).  For a fun and memorable change of pace, the adventurous will kick themselves for not trying the Cabernet Franc-based “Chukker” ($24) from Happy Canyon Vineyards – still a lighter red wine, it is richer than the  part way between the Loire style and the Bordeaux style, as this warm-weather vineyard comes into maturity.
  

 

The Heavyweights
The Heavyweights

The Heavy Weights

These wines are lush in sweet, ripe-fruit flavors with enough alcohol (14.5%+) to suggest they be saved at least until late afternoon.  These are the wines often described as “Masculine”, but I find them equally favorited by those with the double X chromosome as those with the X-Y.  

 

 

Wines made in this style includes many of today’s California Zins (a good example is the Brochelle ’07 Estate Zinfandel, $36), a wide spectrum of the Rhone world (such as Andrew Murray’s ’05 Syrah, $25 or the bigger and earthier ’06 Petite Rousse, $28 or even the uniquely Aussie-styled wine from Barossa Valley – Torbreck’s ’08 Cuvee Juveniles at $24.50).
Whether your Mother’s Day  plans involve brunch, lunch, supper or dinner, or whether your family structure requires all four, this spectrum of wine suggestions provides a pairing for every situation.
It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it               

Hard work, but somebody’s gotta do it

 Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Toasts & Quotes for Mother’s Day:
The moment a child is born, the mother is also born.  She never existed before.  The woman existed, but the mother, never.”    ~Rajneesh

You don’t really understand human nature unless you know why a child on a merry-go-round will wave at his parents every time around – and why his parents will always wave back.”  ~ William D. Tammeus

Sing out loud in the car even, or especially, if it embarrasses your children.”   ~Marilyn Penland

Never raise your hand to your kids.  It leaves your groin unprotected.”  ~Red Buttons