Archive for the 'Dave's Journal' Category

A Gift Giving Guide To A Wine-Soaked Holiday

cupcoffeeI met an old friend for coffee this week.  We soon began comparing levels of amazement at how fast the holidays were approaching, and how ill-prepared we are.

“I have too many gifts to get and not enough time” my friend complained.

“I can help, you know.  Wine always makes a nice gift.” I said.

“But I can’t give wine to everybody on my list” she said, “they’re all so different.”

“Try me”, I said.  Then the next few minutes turned into what can only be called my “Gift giving guide for a wine-soaked holiday”.

eshop60281Innovators vs. Traditionalists
“Well, for example, a lot of my friends are pretty progressive – they work in the arts, advertising, writing… you know the types.  But then there’s my old college roommate – she’s the very poster child for “Traditional”, has Norman Rockwell prints in her dining room, sends daily tweets with feel-good quotes, and probably has a kitty poster in her cubicle, you get the idea.”

“Those are easy”, I said, “Your current friends are likely to eschew the traditional.  Give them the gift of the latest new wine discovery – something that’s hot in the hippest of wine bars.  Good candidates that won’t break the bank include a dry, floral white like the Malat Gruner Veltliner ($18) or the Andeluna Torrontes ($12.50).  And if they enjoy red wines too then include a bottle of the Southern Rhone blend from Riussanelle ($19) or the Chilean Pacifico Sur Reserve Pinot Noir ($15)

“But your old roommate is a different story” I went on.  ”She clearly likes to stick with known entities, so don’t surprise her with anything too edgy.  Stick with the ol’ traditionals – Cabernet and Chardonnay.  Try the Napa Cabernet from Bighorn Cellars ($20) and/or Bonneau’s Carneros Chardonnay ($28), both are affordable wines made in the classic style she’ll appreciate.”

Relationships
“Perfect, that takes care of my friends and co-workers!” She said as she paused to take notes on the inside of her coffee cup’s hot sleeve.  Then she turned a bit coy as she asked “What would you recommend for my dinner date tomorrow night?  I’ve been invited over by this new guy I’m seeing.  It’s our first dinner at his place and I’m bringing the wine, but I don’t know what we’re having.”

“Well, if you don’t know what he’s making or ordering you’ll want a very versatile wine.  And since it’s a new relationship, a Beaujolais Nouveau would be a lot of fun!”

I went on… “This young wine just “arrivéd” in local wine shops about two weeks ago.  It’s called ‘nouveau’ because it’s the first release of the harvest – a simple wine, barely past puberty and fresh from the frothy fermentation vat with still-vivid memories of hanging around on the vine.  Beaujolais Nouveau celebrates the fertility of the harvest, so it’s Bacchanalian at its core!  In its native town of Beaujolais, the celebration begins at midnight with a parade (featuring lots of drinking), after which the wine hits the stores to satisfy long, anticipatory, Harry-Potter-like lines of eager imbibers.  The only serious thing about this wine is that it’s seriously grapey and easy to drink” I said fondly.  “And besides, they’re highly affordable, though in the world of Beaujolais Nouveau, you get quite a bit more bang for spending a bit more buck, so to speak.”

Hmmm, that sounds interesting, but what should I bring as a back-up?” she asked, wisely cautious.

“Well,” I continued, now on a roll, “at the holidays a sparkling wine is always a welcome site, and a good Brut is one of the most versatile food wines you can find – especially a Brut Rosé, which also lends a festive holiday color to your glass.”  Besides, (depending on your goal for the evening!) sparkling wine inspires more lurid conversation than most wines – want to hear a good story along those lines?”

“Well I’m not sure I want to get into that on our first dinner date, but… I’d like to hear the story!” she said.

“I think you’ll like it,” I said.  “You know the two types of champagne glasses, right?  The tall, slender flute and the low, flat cup or coupé?”

“Of course.” She said.  “And I know flutes are best for preserving the bubbles.”

Champagne Coupe“Right.  But it’s the coupé that has the more tantalizing story.  It supposedly originated in the years just before the French revolution.  According to the story, poor King Louis didn’t offer his young bride much bedroom satisfaction even though she was young and vivacious and wantin’ to be wanton.  Which she was, on more than one occasion, but outside the restrictive confines of the royal bedroom.  Each time, she countered her husband’s jealousy through extravagant gifts.

Keep in mind that her wanton behavior occurred when the age of courtesans was still fresh.  And as a courtesan’s customers entered her boudoir, she often greeted them with champagne served in a hand-blown glass – a replica of her own breast.  A preview of coming attractions, as it were.  Rumor has it that one of Marie Antoinette’s penance gifts to her King consisted of such a glass – titillating, so to speak, in its naughtiness as a gift to a King, and exactly the sort of thing the marauding revolutionists would have surely destroyed during the siege of the royal residence.”

“Wow!” she said with raised eyebrows.  “You’re right, I’m not sure that’s a story I’ll tell on the first date.”

“Why don’t I quite believe you?” I teased.

Crazy Uncle
“Well… getting back to my holidays, what should I do about my crazy uncle?  He’s more of a ‘Jack & Coke’ type of guy who’s inclined to tell the same jokes every year, laugh a little too loudly, and who often forgets to bring the presents he supposedly bought for the family.”

“Sounds painful” I sympathized.  “He’s accustomed to a drink that delivers an alcoholic burn offset by the sweetness of Coke.  So that calls for a red wine with lots of ripe fruit and a big wallop.  Sounds like the job for a California Syrah or Zinfandel with alcohol above 15%, which comes with the side benefit of encouraging Crazy Uncle to take an early nap.  A good example is one whose high alcohol is kept in balance by ripe fruit, one such as Sextant’s Holystone Zinfandel from Paso Robles ($27) [Link #7]

Rich Relative
“Ouch! That’s a bit pricey for my crazy uncle!” she said “maybe I should save that one for my wealthy aunt, besides, she’s the real wine lover!”

“Wait a minute, are you in the will?!  Then avoid having her fall in love with an expensive wine or she may be tempted to drink your inheritance!”  I joked, “but if she does develop a thirst for expensive wines, please give her my number!”

vignetteRecovering Alcoholic
“Well, there is ONE relative I definitely won’t buy wine for – my aunt who quite drinking a few years ago.  What do you recommend for her?”

“Oddly enough, there are some good grape juices you should consider.  We buy the plain grape juice from Navarro Vineyards for our daughter, but our absolute favorite is the Vignette sodas made from wine grapes (I like the sparkling pinot noir juice the best!)  These are not wines that have been de-alcoholized like the horrid Fre “Wines” – a sort of cross-dressing experiment gone awry.  These are very appealing beverages in their own right.”

“How much time will it take me to purchase these on your website?” she asked

“Just as much time as it will take you to give me the payment info and delivery addresses of each recipient – I’ll do the rest!”

“Perfect” she said.  ”And don’t forget to include some for me too!”

If I haven’t covered some of the folks on your list, please give me a call (toll free 866-746-7293) or visit my online store.

Happy SantaCheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Wine Merchant Honors Koko Taylor

kokotaylor2006Famed blues singer, Koko Taylor, died yesterday from complications following surgery.  She was 81.

Why am I writing about this in a wine blog?  Because she is part of a great, wine-fueled memory of mine.

It was in the late 80’s, a time which found me living in Chicago, my love of wine growing faster than a teenager.  After an extended night of wine sipping in one of Chicago’s many great restaurants (Cabernet from Conn Creek, as I recall), this wine sipper and his friends descended on a blues bar.  Koko Taylor was already part-way through her first set when we arrived.

We stepped into a packed house, so we naturally scanned the back of the dark hall for empty seats.  We saw a few (none of them together of course) and just as we started towards them I saw four seats – all together – on the far end of the front row. Musterring our Cabernet-fueled courage (though admittedly, this was the late 80’s, and the octane was not what it is today) the four of us excused our way past each person in the row, passing directly in front of Ms. Taylor’s massive presence.

Which did not go unnoticed.  And after bringing it home, she called me out, saying “If you want to take over my stage, you have to sing with me on this next song, it’s a little something I made famous called ‘Wang Dang Doodle’“.  She wanted me to sing in call-and-response to her “All night long” refrain (play video below, to remember this song as it SHOULD be remembered – without my contribution!).

Now, for those unfamiliar with my so-called singing, let’s just say that I’m no pro.  In fact, I’ve had several shower heads break in protest. The best thing my mother could ever say about my singing is “Well son, at least you have volume!”

Maybe that’s why, as the great Koko Taylor handed me a microphone, all my Cabernet courage drained away.  My response to her “All night long” refrain was the most feeble, timid, off-key response anyone could ever imagine.  And boy did Ms. Taylor let me have it with some good-natured ribbing after the song was over.

Koko, wherever you are, I thank you for the memory.

Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Quote of the Day
“”Blues means what milk does to a baby. Blues is what the spirit is to the minister. We sing the blues because our hearts have been hurt, our souls have been disturbed.”

~ Alberta Hunter, 1895-1984.  Blues singer, songwriter, nurse.

Travel With Wine, Not Honey

baggage-claim“I think that’s your bag, honey!” she said.

“It’s not the last one off the plane?  Yay!” I said

“I’ll get it” she said.

“Thanks” I said.

“I hope the wine’s OK” she said.

“It always is” I said.

“(Grunting) Got it!” she said.”

“Daddy it’s all sticky” the little she said.

“Something must have leaked onto it in the hold” I said.

“I just hope it’s not the honey we bought.” she said

“No way.” I said, knowing in my heart she was right.

honey-dew-2Next to several bottles of wine, I’d packed two jars of honey.   It was special honey, from bees who make their living pollinating plants in Spain’s fertile Montsant region.  (Actually, I doubt whether bees respect appellational boundaries, so some of their pollinating likely took place in the neighboring Priorat DOC/DOQ.  Blessed little trespassers!)

During my years of travel to foreign wine lands, I’ve always brought samples safely home by wrapping them in excess clothing and then snugly  tucking them inside my checked luggage (article here).

But not this time – the photo at right shows the honey-clad suitcase after unpacking the sticky mess. You should’a seen the clothes.

Up to now, I’d had a 100% success rate in bringing home wine samples unscathed.  So, why were the odds Gods working against me this time?  Before you abandon hope of using this (usually) reliable technique, you may want to consider two refinements to the basic technique:

  1. I packed so lightly, saving room for my eagerly anticipated wine booty, there was insufficient clothing to adequately wrap the honey jars.  Your goal is to prevent movement of the bottles, especially when your bag is mishandled.  If need be, recruit partially empty rolls of toilet paper and stuff them into your empty spaces.
  2. Three bottles of our wine were housed in a wooden box from Clos de L’Obac, and it was contact with the corner of this box that broke the honey pot.  Despite the attractiveness of wooden wine boxes, I recommend mustering your restraint and leaving them at your hotel, IF you plan to transport other breakables in the same bag.

All in all, I am still a confident supporter of this (usually) reliable technique, and continue to recommend its use for safely returning with wine samples intact.

It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it

Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293

Quote of the Day

“”The only reason for being a bee is to make honey… and the only reason for making honey is so I can eat it.”
~ Winnie the Pooh From ‘House at Pooh Corner’ by A.A. Milne


Kudos to Two Wineries! One Big, One Ant-Sized.

Rubicon bottleFriday, February 13, 2009
The wine business is a business just like any other.  Sometimes people are just people, barely meeting the definition of civility towards others in the business.  But then there's the winery that rises above the rest, either through their hospitality or their pluck.  Let me tell you about two such wineries today – one a well-funded behemoth, the other an under-funded, rising star fueled by a big dream and a lot of talent.

The Big One…
We recently invited Eileen and Jeff over for a special celebration dinner.  My wife and I had planned the meal and dug through our cellar to find the right wine for the evening.  We knew our friends were big fans of the Rubicon Bordeaux blend from Neibaum Coppola, and we'd been looking for a reason to open our 1994, so we decided that night was the perfect occasion. 

Imagine our disappointment when the bottle had a flaw inherent to it manufacture, but which Coppola could not know about until the wine had aged a bit. It was not drinkable.

Now, as a wine merchant, I don't carry a lot of Napa Cabs and am virtually unknown in those parts, I daresay.  But I still don't like to approach a winery flashing my industry badge, so to speak, because I'm always curious to see how a winery will react to an unadorned consumer.

So I filled out a form on the Neibaum Coppola website as an anonymous customer using my personal email address.  Though the content of my message indicated I was familiar with the problem behind the flaw, and had correctly identified it, I did not indicate my industry association in any way.  So when the winery representative replied within a day, pleasantly offering a very amenable resolution to our ruined bottle (replacement with the current vintage), I felt it was worth sharing with you.  Kudos to Coppola!

Click to go to the Anthill Farm website …And The Ant-Sized One
If you've visited this space on a regular basis (thanks Dad!) you may recall past articles featuring our association with the three young guys behind Anthill Farms winery (2007 Harvest photos and article on 2006 harvest.)  Anthony, David and Webb are no strangers to our olive orchard in Boonville, which is situated next to a very small vineyard owned by the delightful Donna Abbey and Dan Harris (the best neighbors one could hope for!)

But this week I finally got around to reading Anthill Farm's well-deserved feature story – Making a Mountain Out of [an] Anthill" - that appeared in the wine section of the S.F. Chronicle two weeks ago.  It is an inspiring story.

At the opposite end of the spectrum from Coppola, Anthill Farms has yet to pay its partners a dime, and was started a few years ago with less than $10,000.  But they can take comfort in the consistency of their short track record – consistently high scores from Burghound and the Chronicle (as well as from yours truly, for what that's worth!)

Though I can't get enough of their wine to include it in a club shipment, you deserve the chance to taste it before it's all gone.  You can buy some here.

It was a good week in the wine industry.

Dtwm_color_web_optimizedCheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com 

Quote of the Day:
"These guys are the overwhelming underdogs."

~ Yogi Berra (1925-?)  Baseball Player, Manager, Hall of Famer, and

delightful mangler of the English Language


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Fighting Vainly The Old Ennui – Wine and Valentines?

zwani.com myspace graphic comments
www.zwani.com

 

Monday, February 9th, 2009 – "Fighting vainly the old ennui" – as I write this I hear Jamie Cullum's voice singing that phrase from the Cole Porter song "I Get a Kick Out of You".  And after two weeks of being bombarded by thousands of of pink-and-red heart-themed ads for everything from tires to premium membership at Marketing Profs, I find myself battling a Valentine's Day ennui.  Which is not good for an online wine retailer.  I should be jumping into the fray, unleashing my own barrage of cupid-born messages.

I'm still a big fan of celebrating love in all its various and sundry forms, as long as the celebration is sincere.  But really, how many red-heart-infused ads can we see before the words "I love you" fail to conjure the sense of excitement that is their birthright? 

So today's posting contains no heart images.  No flying babies with bows and arrows.  No doilies.  No pink or red typeface.  Just the news that West Coast customers who order by noon on Wednesday will still receive wine in time for weekend festivities, whatever you have planned.

Click here to see my most recently recommended wines

Or click here for my recommended sweet wines.

And what better way to express your love for someone than through a languorous evening of great food, wine and conversation?  In that spirit, I've copied here a recipe from my February shipment to club members.  It compliments a wide range of red wines, and warms the coldest of hearts on a winter night.

Salt-Roasted Porterhouse

This recipe was inspired by Govind Armstrong at “Table 8” in Los Angeles.  If you’re like me, you'll worry that smothering a steak in salt will yield tough, dry meat similar to beef jerky (or shoe leather, but then I repeat myself).  Fortunately, nothing could be further from the truth.  By forming a hard barrier, the salt seals the meat's juices inside.  You then crack open the salt crust and discard it before carving – sort of a low-cost version of clay pot cooking that rewards the home chef with a moist and tender steak. 

The spice rub takes a leaf from the playbook of our pulled pork recipe that was so popular last summer, producing another meal you’ll long remember.  Add a great bottle of pinot and a loved one and this just may form a perfect winter memory.

Ingredients
2 Bay leaves, crushed
1 Tbsp whole peppercorns
2 tsp Whole coriander seeds

2 tsp fennel seeds
2 tsp mustard seeds
2 tsp dried rosemary (or t Tbsp chopped fresh)
½ tsp dried crushed red pepper
1 ½ Cups (plus 1 tsp) coarse kosher salt
2 large Porterhouse or T-Bone steaks

Procedure
Mix the first seven ingredients well.  Transfer 2 Tbsp of the mixture to a spice grinder and grind well – to a fine powder, then mix in 1 tsp of the salt, keeping this ground mixture separate from the whole spice mixture.  Rub the finely ground spice mixture all over the steaks, wrap in plastic and chill for at least 3 hours or up to 8 hours.

Preheat your oven to 475.  Mix the remaining “whole” spice mixture with 1 ½ Cups kosher salt in a medium bowl.  Add a scant ¼ Cup water and stir to moisten the spices.  Unwrap the steaks and place them in a large roasting pan, then pack the salt-spice mix over the top and sides of each steak, leaving the bottom (pan-side) unsalted.

Roast for about 25 minutes or until the internal temperature registers 130 degrees.  Remove from oven and place on a cutting board, cover loosely with a tent of foil and let sit for 8-10 minutes. 

When ready to serve, crack open the salt crust and discard.  Turn the steaks over (to the more tender, un-salted side) and slice into ½ inch thick slices.

Enjoy with loved ones old or new.

Dtwm_color_web_optimizedCheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com 

Quote of the Day:
"Without love, what are we worth?  Eighty-nine cents!  Eighty-nine cents worth of chemicals walking around lonely."

~ Hawkeye Pierce, in the TV show M*A*S*H


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Nikitas Magel Interviews Dave the Wine Merchant

Vinikitasportraitflipped Monday, September 22, 2008
Wine Blogger Nikitas Magel (whose beautiful website can be enjoyed at www.vinikitas.com ) attended my September wine class at Reaves Gallery in San Francisco.  In preparing his post about the event, we held an email interview that is copied here.

NM: Dave, what’s your background in wine?  How long have you been in the industry?  And what led you to where you are today?

DC: I remember two things from 1979.  First, I graduated from college, and second, I knew I hated wine.  I had reached this conclusion scientifically, through repeated tastings.  The wine I tastes was an unpleasant combination of Cribari jug wine and 7-Up.  This frightful concoction was served at our college parties, it’s lack of quality more than offset by its tasteful service – usually a small wading pool complete with rubber ducks.  If it was served at a high-class event, and if we had a few extra bucks in the kitty, the ducks competed with sliced fruit for clear passage.  Each of my samplings resulted in the same unfavorable judgment, and my dislike for "wine" was confirmed as solidly as my belief in gravity.

I was finally introduced to good wine in 1981 during an alumni event at Callaway Vineyards.  At that time, Callaway was an emerging producer of quality white wines from their estate vineyards in Temecula.  I was shocked!  I actually enjoyed them!  I became convinced that my repetitive, scientific tastings during my college years had led me astray because they were limited to RED wines, while I was a natural white wine drinker.

That early epiphany launched an exciting period of experimentation.  My roommates and I bought the best white wine our meager budgets allowed, and we learned to cook specifically to see what paired best with each wine.  We held various sorts of wine-themed parties primarily as an excuse to meet women, and were rather pleased with the results.  I remember that we mastered fondue, having bought a fondue pot for a buck at a garage sale.  It was a fun period of exploration and discovery.  On many levels.

But it took me another year to come to red wines.  It happened at a steak restaurant while visiting friends in San Jose.  “Shall we have wine with dinner?” they asked. 

“As long as it’s white!” I replied.   

“You can’t drink white wine with steak!” they said “Let’s order a bottle of red and if you don’t like it, you can order a glass of white wine.”  That was the night I tasted my first high-quality red wine – a Heitz Cellars Cabernet. I was stunned.  Literally stopped in my tracks.  I had no idea a wine could be so pleasurable and thought-provoking.

That launched a frenzied decade of wine classes and wine events.  I was single at the time, so my evenings and weekends were largely my own, and I filled them with wine events.

I began teaching classes in the early 90’s out of necessity.  After following a job in a small Michigan town with virtually no wine culture, I decided to create my own by teaching wine appreciation classes.  I know of at least one major wine fan who can be traced back to those classes, as he and his family are still friends and customers of mine.

I kept taking and hosting classes for another decade after moving to San Francisco (wine Mecca!), and I still enjoy few aspects of the business more than sharing my love and enthusiasm for food and wine.  I’d wanted to get into the industry throughout much of my corporate career, but never wanted to take the pay cut!  I’d even worked in tasting rooms on weekends, assisted with a harvest or two, and tried to develop winery marketing programs in my off hours.  But could never cross the Rubicon of corporate security.

But when the dot-com meltdown occurred in 2001, I found myself out of work and with few companies hiring.  That was all the impetus I needed!

Swclogogs3x3_10 NM: What’s the story of the Sideways Wine Club?  What led to its inception?  How is it different from other wine retail enterprises?

DC: I’d been working in corporate America for two decades, growing increasingly disenchanted but unable to tear away from the lucrative cash flow.  I began working in tasting rooms on the weekends, just to keep learning about wine, and began traveling to France, Italy and other wine-producing regions to learn in situ.  But it wasn’t until the dot-com meltdown of 2001 that my cash flow was severed and I decided to launch my wine career. 

At first I leveraged my professional background by offering online marketing services to wineries.  For one client – Bonny Doon Vineyard – a six-week project expanded into 2 ½ years.  It was more fun than most people ever get to have at work (or with their clothes on, for that matter!) but it also made me realize I couldn’t reach my financial goals while consulting for wineries. 

Coincidentally, about the same time I was winding down my consulting arrangement with Bonny Doon, the movie “Sideways” was released in October, and was a well-established surprise hit and likely Oscar nominee by December.  As I was casting about to see what was next for me, I began making inquiries about launching my own wine club under the Sideways license, and finally launched the entity on April 1st of 2005.  To commemorate each anniversary, I write an April Fool’s day posting for this blog.

How does it differ from other retail enterprises?  It may sound trite, but the real difference is the people involved, more than simply its unique brand.  Very few enterprises have a face behind the brand these days.  I mean, who can you contact at Wine.com?  Wine Commune?  BevMo??  Even some of the great wine retailers are completely anonymous, especially online, and some of the best local merchants are nearly invisible online.  We still have humans on the front lines, my name on every email, and a personal reply to each inquiry.  More than our unique brand, that’s what differentiates us.

NM: What prompted you to begin teaching classes now?  What do you hope to accomplish with your classes?  What’s your favorite aspect of teaching them?

DC: I hosted wine classes and tasting groups throughout the 90’s, but by 1999 my work load became oppressive and eclipsed my wine classes (each of which required 20-30 hours in preparation).  But when I got involved with the wine shop “Tastes of the Valleys” in Solvang, I began teaching again, and remembered how enjoyable it was to share my enthusiasm with others.

It was a casual meeting with an old friend that resulted in the monthly “Third Tuesday” classes at Reaves Gallery in San Francisco.  The gallery space limitations mandate small, intimate classes of 10 – 15 people.  The classes have developed a nice group of regulars who look forward to catching up and sharing new wine discoveries each month.  I love it!

NM: Future plans or changes for the club?  For the classes?

DC: There are so many things to talk about!  I am always looking for ways to break the model and re-invent what I’m doing.  That assures that I remain both enthusiastic and prepared for whatever comes next in our industry. 

My top predictions for the wine industry in ten years?  I will be very different.  Look specifically for a new wave of opinion leaders as well as a vastly different distribution landscape.  Watch for mobile computing and other forms of electronic communities to have increasingly significant roles.  Moderate consumption of wine will be increasingly recognized as a healthy part of a daily diet, so watch for wine to grow ever more common on our dinner tables at home.


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Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"Laughter and tears are both responses to frustration and exhaustion.
I myself prefer to laugh, since there is less cleaning up to do afterward.
"
—-Kurt Vonnegut, US novelist (1922 – 2007)


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My long silence, explained. I've been busy. Dave 4 Pres!

Thursday, September 10, 2008

After seeing some of the resumes of our current candidates for our country’s top office, I decided it was worth throwing my hat into the ring.  At first, I thought it was just a fluke, but now, as you can see (below), it’s picked up quite a lot of momentum!  Click the video to view…

If I’m to have any hope of overcoming the political powerhouses, I’ll need your support.  Please send your checks to me directly, made out to "Dave the Wine Merchant for President".  All those contributing more than $100 will recieve whatever wine is left over at our wine bar.

But seriuosly, aside from this impressive spoof from the minds behind paltalk.com, I could use your vote. It’s just that, I could use your vote for my blog, and I could use it before November!  Remember, vote daily!

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
"We’d all like to vote for the best man, but he’s never a candidate"
~Frank McKinney Hubbard"


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Good Bye to the Bonny Doon Tasting Room

Randall_grahmMonday, August 25th, 2008
About 8 years ago, I left the world of corporate marketing to pursue a life of wine.  One of my early consulting gigs was with Bonny Doon Vineyard, the iconoclastic, rule-bending producer whose marketing mantra is "Don’t be boring".  It is the only client I’ve ever had where the prevailing paradigm included phrases like "if we don’t get a few complaints from everything we do, we’re not being creative enough!"

In early 2002, I started consulting on a six-week project that expanded into 2.5 years worth of activities.  Working at "the Doon" is like going through boot camp.  I still have friends from those days.  And, though we have mostly scattered to the far corners of the wine world, we enjoy keeping in touch, swapping new wine discoveries and recipes, attending each other’s weddings, and supporting new career moves. 

So this news of the closing of the old Bonny Doon tasting room north of Santa Cruz marks the end of a chapter.  It was a dilapidated facility, held together with personality and chewing gum.  I’m not surprised it’s closing, but will miss the idea of it, though it will always remain alive in my mind’s eye.  Here is the announcement from Randall Grahm, replicated here by permission.  As usual, it is a good read, as one expects from the pen of the "President for Life":


Message from Randall Grahm

Pine Flat: An Appreciation and Reminiscence

(Visit our Bonny Doon Tasting Room Today! We’re moving in November)

Bdv_tr_front_2 It’s been a while since I’ve spent much time hanging out at the tasting room and old winery in Bonny Doon; the penultimate time was the night of the recent Martin Rd. fire, rummaging around by flashlight for precious, indispensible objects. There was plenty of wine at peril – well, we could always make more wine – but I observed so many artifacts, subtle reminders of all of the goofy schemes, initiatives hare-brained or brilliant that were undertaken at one point or another, the zillion D.E.W.N. art labels that John Locke had engineered. The Castanedan term "controlled folly" came to mind – though it was not clear how much control there ever was or ever would be. There were still reminders of tasting room staff who had been there forever. Kathleen Proffitt’s cackle reposes in the DNA of the building.

I have lately been flooded with memories of the old winery and tasting room, and some are indelible. I remember when the winery building was originally built out to its current footprint – it was essentially a remodel of a remodel of an equipment rental shed. I don’t remember precisely what month it was in 1984 – I’m thinking November, just after harvest, but it was a Sunday morning and I came in very early to check on something or other, only to find that the water heater shed was on fire. It was a dreamlike experience, reaching for a garden hose to try to douse the flames, but of course, the electricity was out and the pump didn’t work and the fire sprinkler system was inoperative for some other reason – yes, I think that it was just due to be installed. So, I just watched the flames grow and grow until the Bonny Doon Fire Team arrived, rather in the nick of time, to put the blaze out. We rebuilt the winery, didn’t lose too much wine and there was ample opportunity for some heavy toast humor – Charredonnay, Cabburnet, Côte-Rotie, etc.

I remember the dark day when a diversion valve – that which diverted the run-off from the crush pad into a storage tank rather than into a culvert which fed into Mill Creek – malfunctioned and we inadvertently dumped 100 gallons of spent wine from the distillery into aforesaid creek. The officer from Fish and Game was not very happy, but not as unhappy as I was.

There were some incredible moments. I remember when I first met André Ostertag, the brilliant winemaker from Alsace, who has subsequently become my friend. André had just flown in from Paris, apparently taken a bus from the airport to Santa Cruz, another bus to Davenport and seemingly walked the balance of the way. (Maybe he hitch-hiked.) He was very tired and very sweaty. This had to have been 1985 or so, and André’s command of the English language was not yet perfect. "It’s such a great pleasure to meet you, André," I said. "Thank you," he said, and in very halting English, "but if I may bother you, what I really need now is a douche."¹

Sammy Hagar came to visit one day ("Man, like I totally missed Davenport.")² and spent the afternoon tasting through everything in the house. We loaded up his Porsche with eight or nine cases of wine and Potstill Brandy and observed him depart into the twilight, his red taillights now just a flickering retinal after-image.

John Locke himself showed up at the doorstep of the tasting room one day, his red Honda Civic packed to the gills with Lockean impedimenta. He had driven cross-country from Washington, D.C. – one imagines non-stop – to come and work at Bonny Doon, having learned about the winery at a shop in the East Coast. The thought of actually calling before showing up had just never occurred to him. "I’ll work for free," he offered. "You’re on," I said. Many illustrious Bonny Doon alumni – Ted Pearson, Rebecca Foulk and Anita Cabanilla come immediately to mind – began their wine career working in the tasting room.

Marco di Grazia brought his entourage of "Barolo Boys" to visit the winery in the late ’80s. These were my heroes, the greatest winemakers of Piemonte – which is essentially equivalent to saying the greatest in the universe – and they were here, sitting on the deck of the tasting room, feasting on abalone, which we procured from the abalone farm down on the coast. Many of them had never left Italy to that point, i.e. had never had seen a redwood tree, and they were really digging the awe-inspiring beauty and peacefulness of this unique place that we have been so lucky to enjoy for so long.

I think mostly of the extraordinary people who have come to work at the tasting room – the charismatic managers, Sandy Mast and Katherine Stalmann, who were there for decades, and who had the keenest ability to ferret out talent and personality among the stellar people who had come to work in the tasting room over the years. I am not exaggerating at all when I report that I have been all over the world and virtually everywhere I go, someone, a stranger, will report to me that he or she has recently visited our tasting room and have been enormously impressed by the warmth and knowledgeability of the servers they have met there.

I cannot say how much I already miss the old place and what sweet memories of it will remain. Our new tasting room, which will be located at the winery in Westside Santa Cruz, has a different feel. Obviously no redwoods, no spectral apparitions suddenly appearing from out of the mist – Bonny Doon has always in fact been Brigadoon. But, the opportunity we have down at Ingalls Street is to really show our customers what we are doing – to delve deeper into an exposition of the wines, how they were made, how they work with food, for example. The new tasting room is under construction and despite the context of its gritty industrial neighborhood; it already shines like a precious stone. It is as magical as it is unexpected, and reflects the real depth of our commitment to producing great wine. I can promise you that you will be delighted… Stay Dooned! and I invite you to experience where a passion and lifelong quest for vins de terroir began more than 25 years ago in the bucolic hamlet of Bonny Doon.

____________________________
¹ (Fr.) Shower
² He can’t drive fifty-five.


Good bye, Pine Flat. I’ll remember you fondly.

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
How lucky I am to have something that makes saying goodbye so hard"


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The Benefits of Blind Tastings

Dscn1653Friday, August 1, 2008
Attendance at this year’s CA Wine Tasting Championships was disappointing.  It was the 26th anniversary of the event, and used to be so popular that parking was a problem.  This year, I parked right next to the entry gate.

Dscn0411Which is why the event is being discontinued as a public event next year, the pleasures of this friendly, skill-honing competition being shared only amongst the sponsor’s wine club members.  The sponsor is the intrepid Alan Green and his winery, Greenwood Ridge Vineyards.  Interested parties can join their wine club here.

Between rounds of the competition I sat with friends I see annually at this venue.  We were all puzzled as to why the event has seen declining in popularity.  Suggestions were readily offered, but all the usual reasons – its remote location, limited food options, etc etc – were all equally compelling during the event’s halcyon days. 

It even generated unprecedented publicity this year, and tested an expensive advertising budget in Sunset and other relevant publications.  All to no avail.  Leaving us puzzled over the lack of interest in this valuable opportunity to hone our palates, to understand our own strengths and weaknesses as wine lovers.

The Benefits of Blind Tastings
I remember a story once told to me by someone who worked with Master Sommelier Larry Stone at the famed restaurant Rubicon (he’s now G.M. of the larger Rubicon Estates).  He described how Larry’s incredible energy and enthusiasm for wine kept his staff constantly on their toes:

"I would be in the middle of dinner service – as stressful time under any circumstance – and Larry would stick a wine under my nose and say ‘Tell me about this!‘  I would have to stop everything, sample the wine, and quickly find something intelligent to say.  Every new staff member soon learned to hone their palates under Larry’s guidance.  Even those who began with nothing more than ‘It smells like grapes to me’ would soon be describing full flavors, identifying old world vs. new world, and nailing grape varietals…"

Blind_taster_nymagI have long believed the the best way to hone my palate is to have unknown wines shoved in front of me with the command "tell me about it".  In my single days, when my schedule was less congested with family duties, I organized an annual blind tasting of sparkling wines.  Cost of admission was one bottle of sparkling wine from anywhere in the world and formal attire.  Each bottle was wrapped in identical paper and randomly labeled.  Duplicate entries were wrapped and labeled separately, to see if evaluations were consistent. Results were always fun and eye-opening.

Such mano-a-vino confrontations bring out the true characteristics of the wine as well as the taster, both of which are stripped of any pretense or pre-conceived notions.  I encourage anyone with more than a casual interest in wine to undertake this exercise as often as possible.  It is humbling, so I don’t recommend it to those with fragile wine egos (read BIG).  But for those with a curious mind and a true love of the grape, it can be a most enjoyable way to learn.

Have a story about blind tastings?  Please share your experiences in today’s comment box – readers want to hear from you.

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:
A peek at the bottle is worth 50 years of tasting” ~Michael Broadbent, famed wine critic and auctioneer


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Strong Wine Community – a Sign of a Sound Civilization

Dscn0388Tuesday, July 29th, 2008
Kalifornia is King in the domestic wine world.  This is a simple fact.  Not to take away from the great wines of Oregon.  Or Washington.  Or the emerging areas to the East, all of which I love and enjoy.  But California leads the race in every relevant metric:

  • California is home to more wineries than all other states combined. 
  • Our state has a per-capita consumption rate that rivals those of Europe.
  • Producers and retailers operate under the most liberal set of alcoholic beverage laws in any of the 50 states.

These are good metrics for measuring the strength of a state’s wine business.  If you’re an economist. 

But if you’re a wine fan trying to pursue your own enophilic amore, a more meaningful measure is the strength of your wine community.  Which is good news since you can create your own.  How does one measure the strength of a wine community?  These seem reasonable to me (and I welcome your input via the comment box):

  • Wine Merchants - A critical mass of good, knowledgeable wine merchants is key.  Note – if you have been sentenced to life in the hinterlands, the internet is a Godsend for overcoming a dearth of good merchants, unless your state has deemed shipping wine from California to be a felony, in which case you really must move.
  • Tasting groups – Tasting groups are easy to organize and fun to maintain.  Just be sure each member agrees to the structure of the process (relaxed vs. formal tasting procedures).  I’ve learned this the hard way, watching a group disintegrate into two factions.  It works best to send invitations that clearly describe the process the group uses at each meeting, so everyone who decides to join buys in to the process.
  • The_table_2BYOB Wine Dinners – Without question, this is my favorite way to get exposure to new wines.  Considering each wine over the course of a long evening as it is paired with food is the best way to become intimately familiear with new wines.  Just be sure to let everyone know the menu (including sauces, seasonings and preparation methods) so they know what wine to bring.  All wines are intended to be opened that night and shared.

Such wine dinners occur several times a month at Peter Kuperman’s apartment in San Francisco.  Peter is a born connector – someone who loves putting people together.  Last week he assembled a small throng (16!) of the Bay Area’s wine world for a most enjoyable evening of food, wine and conversation.  Despite my lingering cold/cough and much-compromised nasal passages, I was able to enjoy a wide variety of new wines.  Peter’s guests seemed eager to tap their cellars to share with others who appreciated the sacrifice.  I would hesitate to estimate the average bottle cost at the table that night, but am sure it would stretch my own considerable wine budget.

In_the_kitchen_2The event was coordinated by event planner Erin Reese (far right in photo at left), who helps Peter with his regular events.   Our meal began with prosciutto-wrapped melon (on table in photo, above) – perfect with rich, floral white Emily_stephan_winemongerswines such as those deliciously contributed by Emily Weissman and Stephan Schindler of Winemonger – emerging importers of Austrian and Italian wines (photo at right).  I was fortunate enough to finagle a seat next to this delightful couple, and learned quite a bit about their wines and their business.  Recent transplants from L.A., the Bay Area is now fortunate to include them in their census.

The_main_course_2Peter’s main course provided a salmon in a citrus-tarragon cream sauce accompanied by encrusted rounds of goat cheese (baked just until soft) that topped a mix of field greens with a vinaigrette dressing.  I’m sad to say neither of the wines I contributed (Breggo Cellars and San Simeon pinot noirs) complimented the meal particularly well – I hadn’t known about the sauce, its soft citrus and floral characteristics needed a spicy-floral white wine to really show well.  Fortunately, some of the other guests picked up the slack, and there was no shortage of great wines.

Dessert_trayDinner was followed by a simple cheese tray Erin had arranged. The winning combination here was the bleu cheese with an incredibly rich TBA wine from Winemonger and the Sauternes provided by Simon Littler of Global Wines.

Guest_of_honor_2The guest of honor was Michael Stajer (left), CEO of the Wine Commune – a visionary, wine-based technology company.  Michael uses the internet and telephone so effectively, and moves so much wine, that this humble merchant was in awe of his significant achievements in such a short peiod of time.

Planning Your Own Wine Dinner
Even if you live in Kalamazoo or simply don’t hang around Sommeliers, Wine Merchants, Winemakers and Wine Buyers, it’s fairly easy to create your own wine community.  You may want to follow Peter’s model, starting at a somewhat less ambitious level (dinner for 16 after work on a Tuesday might make even Martha Stewart take pause!)   Just invite one or two good, gregarious friends plus two or three of your local wine merchants, sommeliers or wine buyer for the best store or restaurant in town.  Have everyone bring a bottle of wine (and make it clear it is to be consumed that night) and be sure to tell them what you’ll be serving and how it’s to be prepared.

Not up for planning a meal?  Here’s another idea – instead of inviting your group to your home, invite them to a cook-out where you provide a plethora of side dishes and a large grill or three.  Instruct each guest to provide one bottle of wine per adult and food for you to grill (have plenty of sauces and toppings ready as well).  Any outdoor facility (that allows wine!) will do.  A back yard is a great start, though a public park is generally more scenic and provides room for other amenities (a band, kids games, adult games, etc.) depending on how expensive you can afford to get.  For a nice twist, hire (or partner with) a local chef to tend the grill – your guests will enjoy seeing what a professional can do with their food contribution!

Have you recently enjoyed a great wine dinner?  Share your ideas and experiences with the rest of us by entering a comment in the space below.

Dtwm_color_web_optimized Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com or
Dave@TastesOfTheValleys.com

Today’s Quote:

“Good wine ruins the purse.  Bad wine ruins the stomach.”  ~Old Spanish Saying


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