I was tired and well behind schedule when my electronic calendar informed me it was time to head to Sonoma. The nag.
It seemed like weeks since I’d returned my RSVP for the release party for the new book “A Passion for Pinot.” At the time the event sounded most promising, and I recalled the invitation mentioning something about several interesting wines being poured. But at the time I wasn’t swamped trying to get ready for this week’s wine club shipment. ”To attend, or to tend to to-dos?” That was the question.
I attended. And I’m glad I did.
The beautiful Guest House at DeLoach Vineyards
I had to make a rather inglorious and early departure, embarrassingly conspicuous in the roomful of rapt attendees (right) at DeLoach Vineyards. But upon returning home I enjoyed this most pleasant event all over again as I perused its pages. “A Passion For Pinot” is a compelling combination of photographs from all over the world of Pinot (Mondo Pinot?) and enjoyable, informative but most accessible text.
Between these two influences, the book is a black hole that absorbs your attention and curiosity until suddenly you realize you’re late for dinner.
This text is from the pen (well, keyboard, most likely) of knowledgeable wine writer Jordan Mackay, who also moderated the fire-side chat for the panel of winegrowers at the launch event (below).
Brian Maloney (DeLoach), Dan Goldfield (Dutton-Goldfield), Adam Lee (Siduri) and author Jordan MacKay
It’s photographic credits go to a duo of talented photographers, Andrea Johnson and Robert Holmes. Both were in attendance, and seem as beautiful as their photographs.
But it would be a waste and a shame to relegate this work to a seldom-read, only-occasionally-thumbed, coffee table book. The prose is too informative, and far too readable, to be left untouched by human eye.
The launch party was held in the classic wine-country setting of DeLoach Vineyards, hosted by the ebullient owner, Jean-Charles Boisset, and his charming French accent. President of Boisset Family Estates, Jean-Charles had dedicated his family’s business to sustainable, organic and bio-dynamic practices. And the results are impressive, judging by the delightful wines they chose to serve – The 2007 Green Valley Pinot and the 2007 Masut Vineyard Pinot (available here).
Mike Browne of Kosta Browne Winery
The Panelists poured and discussed a total of 8 different pinots:
- Mike Browne of Kosta Browne Winery (photo at right) poured his 2007 Pinot from Koplen Vineyard, Russian River Valley and his 2007 Rosella’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands. Mike’s wines have often been big, alcoholic and well extracted. When asked about the March 11 NYT article by Eric Asimov “Finessed and Light: California Pinot Noirs With a Manifesto” Mike indicated he thought Eric was a few years behind the curve, and that the movement had started some time ago. But he also indicat3ed that some vintages simply gave themselves to big, ripe and alcoholic wines, and that he plans to continue making wines that reflect what nature provides.
- Dan Goldfield of Dutton-Goldfield Winery poured his 2007 Pinot from Dutton Ranch, Freestone Hill Vineyard and his 2007 Devil’s Gulch Vineyard, (Marin County). Dan told the story of how he first came to know the fruit from Devil’s Gulch Vineyard – it’s owner, Mark Pasternak, approached him with an offer of free grapes in exchange for putting the vineyard on the map. Looks as if both parties benefited from Dan’s bold move, as the vineyard is becoming obscure no more, prized by many for its characteristics similar to the more famous Sonoma Coast AVA.
- Adam Lee of Siduri Wines, poured his 2007 Pinot from Keefer Ranch, Russian River Valley and his 2006 Arbre Vert from Willamette Valley. Tasted next to their California brethren, this wine was an archetype of Oregon. Adam indicated this was his exact intent – he specifically sought an Oregon vineyard that would provide a true essence of Oregon, thus providing his pinot-philic followers an interesting contrast in styles.
- Brian Maloney of DeLoach Vineayrds poured their 2007 pinot from Green Valley (Russian Rvery Valley) and their 2007 Masut Vineyard from Redwood Valley. This latter wine was an interesting myth buster, as it belied my prejudice that Redwood Valley was kinder to thick-skinned grapes like Petite Sirah or Zinfandel. Providing an interesting lesson in terroir, the Masut Vineyard is just north of Ukiah and Laughlin, in a region sufficiently cool to produce this complex and interesting pinot.
A day well spent, despite the clamor of my calendar.
It's hard work, but somebody's gotta do it
Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
866-746-7293
Quote of the Day:
“A great Burgundain Winegrower once told me, ‘Cristie, women can have babies. Winegrowers try to replicate the experience by making Pinot Noir‘”
~Cristie Dufault, Sommelier
